
22 Apr COMMENT DÉTERMINER SON TYPE DE CHEVEUX?
La société dans laquelle nous vivons actuellement a besoin de mettre un nom sur tout, de coller des étiquettes pour pouvoir différencier une chose d’une autre et de fait, pouvoir en parler plus facilement. Mais catégoriser les cheveux, ça personne n’y avait pensé. On parlait de cheveux caucasiens, afros, asiatiques, mais impossible de pouvoir “identifier” avec précision les différentes variantes de ces grands groupes. Au fil des années, les métissages progressant, les types de cheveux se sont diversifiés et le langage capillaire a bien évolué. Aujourd’hui on peut désormais déterminer avec exactitude son type de cheveux. Seuls des néophytes pourraient ne pas s’y retrouver mais, après avoir lu ceci, vous allez tout comprendre (enfin je l’espère)!
Pour la petite histoire, il faut savoir que nous devons cette catégorisation des cheveux à André WALKER, célèbre coiffeur des stars (notamment celui d’ Oprah WINFREY). Dans son ouvrage Andre talks hair, publié en 1999, il propose une classification des cheveux, qui sera par la suite, reprise par bon nombre de professionnels de l’univers capillaire.
Selon lui, pour classifier un cheveu, il faut tenir compte de deux et seulement deux critères:
- LA TEXTURE : raide, ondulé, bouclé, frisé, crépu = 1, 2, 3 ou 4
- L’ÉPAISSEUR du cheveu = a, b ou c
Plusieurs autres professionnels y ont trouvé des limites et ont aussitôt fait de sortir d’autres classifications, plus détaillées; mais de manière générale elles rejoignent un peu toutes, celle d’André WALKER.
DÉTERMINER SON TYPE DE CHEVEUX…
Pour déterminer au mieux votre type de cheveux, considérez les dans l’état le plus naturel qui soit: sans défrisant, sans brushing, bref sans aucun soin, après les avoir lavé et laissé sécher naturellement (sans sèche-cheveux).
TYPE 1: RAIDE – STRAIGHT
Cheveux lisse, sans aucune boucles ou ondulations apparentes, résistant, naturellement brillant. C’est un cheveu à tendance grasse, car le sébum sécrété naturellement par le cuir chevelu, n’éprouve aucune difficulté à s’écouler jusqu’à la pointe.
TYPE 2: ONDULÉ – WAVY
Cheveux ondulé, d’aspect brillant, résistant. Souvent épais, il a des ondulations en forme de S allongé.
TYPE 3: BOUCLÉ – CURLY
Cheveux avec des boucles en forme de spirale plus ou moins resserré. Le cheveu est moins brillant et moins solide que les types 1 et 2.
3a: boucles lâches.
3b: boucles serrées.
3c: boucles très serrées (il shrinke, c’est-à-dire qu’il rétrécit au contact de l’eau ou de l’humidité, un petit peu).
TYPE 4: CRÉPU – KINKY
Cheveu crépu, naturellement peu brillant, plus sec et plus fragile que les autres types.
4a: cheveux ayant des boucles apparentes ( secs ou humides), en forme de ressort. Ici, le shrinkage est plus ou moins important.
4b: cheveux ayant des boucles en forme de Z. Lorsqu’ils sont bien démêlés, ils ont l’aspect d’un nuage de coton. le shrinkage est également plus ou moins important.
4c: cheveux sans boucles apparentes, très sec, car ayant des petites boucles très serrées, qu’on a du mal à voir même humides. Ce type de cheveux peut perdre plus de 75% de sa longueur réelle au contact de l’eau!
Il est à noter qu’il est fort possible d’avoir plusieurs types de cheveux sur une même tête.
Le cheveu crépu, comme on l’a vu est le cheveu le plus sec, de part sa nature, qui ne laisse pas le sébum s’étaler sur la longueur. Mais de manière générale, peu importe votre type de cheveux, qu’ils soient difficiles ou pas, qu’ils soient secs, voire très secs, il existe aujourd’hui des produits capables de les sublimer. Bien sûr en complément d’une bonne routine capillaire…
NB: cette détermination du type de Cheveux est, comme mentionné plus haut, purement visuel.
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